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Kukri Blade
Keeper (Hira Jornu): Spade/Diamond shaped metal/brass plate used to seal the butt cap.
Butt Cap (Chapri): Thick metal/brass plate used to secure the handle to the tang.
Tang (Paro): Rear piece of the blade that goes through the handle
Bolster (Kanjo): Thick metal/brass round shaped plate between blade and handle made to support and reinforce the fixture.
Spine (Beet): Thickest blunt edge of the blade.
Fuller/Groove (Khol): Straight groove or deep line that runs along part of the upper spine.
Peak (Juro): Highest point of the blade.
Main body (Ang): Main surface or panel of the blade.
Fuller (Chirra): Curvature/Hump in the blade made to absorb impact and to reduce unnecessary weight.
Tip (Toppa): Starting point of the blade.
Edge (Dhaar): Sharp edge of the blade.
Belly (Bhundi): Widest part/area of the blade.
Bevel (Patti): Slope from the main body until the sharp edge.
Cho/Notch (Kaudi): A distintive cut (numeric 3 like shape) in the edge functioned as a blood dropper and others.
Ricasso (Ghari): Blunt area between notch and bolster.
Rings (Harhari): Round circles in the handle.
Rivet (Khil): Steel or metal bolt to fasten or secure tang to the handle.
Tang Tail (Puchchar): Last point of the khukuri blade.

Kukri Scabbard
Frog (Faras): Belt holder especially made of thick leather (2mm to 4mm) encircling the scabbard close towards the throat.
Upper Edge (Mathillo Bhaag): Spine of the scabbard where holding should be done when handling a Khukuri.
Lace (Tuna): A leather cord used to sew or attach two ends of the frog. Especially used in army types (not available in this pic).
Main Body (Sharir): The main body or surface of the scabbard. Generally made in semi oval shape.
Chape (Khothi): Pointed mettalic tip of the scabbard. Used to protect the naked tip of a scabbard.
Loop (Golie): Round leather room/space where a belt goes through attached/fixed to the keeper with steel rivets.
Throat (Mauri): Entrance towards the interior of the scabbard for the blade.
Strap/Ridge (Bhunti): Thick raw leather encirlcing the scabbard made to create a hump to secure the frog from moving or wobbling (not available in this pic).
Lower Edge (Tallo Bhag): Belly/curvature of the scabbard.


# Polished Version:

The Raw khukuri blade made by Kami is first stone grinded and sanded by 60 and then 100 grit sandblaster. After that it is scrubbed by coarse iron dust then medium and lastly fine, that is glued to 6-10” hard cloth wheel. Then buffing takes over which is done by using buff soap and a soft cloth wheel. For Mirror Polish Finishing, another special soap is used and press-buffing technique is adopted to get that mirror look. In the whole process heat is generated in the blade so there is a fair bit of chance that the tempering/hardening is withdrawn resulting into slightly weakening of the blade’s hardness or strength. But this is normalized (controlled) by regularly dipping the blade into the water (normal temperature) kept in a bucket throughout the whole process.

# Semi Polished Version:

The Raw khukuri blade made by Kami is first stone grinded and sanded by 60 and then 100 grit sandblaster. After that it is scrubbed by coarse iron dust that is prepared by gluing in a 6-10” hard cloth wheel and then Medium is used in the same manner. Later a 6-7” wheel that has very fine iron dust (almost as powder) glued in its edge is used in the blade to achieve the Semi-Polished finishing. In the whole process some heat is generated in the blade that may withdraw the tempering/hardening of it so this is normalized (controlled) by regularly dipping the blade into the water (normal temperature) kept in a bucket throughout the whole process.

# Unpolished Version:

The Raw khukuri blade made by Kami is first stone grinded and sanded by 60 and then 100 grit sandblaster. After that it is scrubbed by coarse iron dust that is prepared by gluing in a 6-10” hard cloth wheel. The machining process stops here and Unpolished finishing is delivered. In the whole process minimum heat (harmless to blade) is generated yet the blade is regularly dipped into the water (normal temperature) kept in a bucket as a precautionary measure so no temper/hardness burns off at all.

# RAW Version:

The Raw khukuri blade made by Kami is not even stone grinded or sanded (left as it is). Only a section or two (panel or/and edge) goes through machining (polished/semi-polished/unpolished) should that be the standard finishing (pre-set) of the khukuri knife. No heat is generated so temper issue is completely eliminated. The original temper totally retains in this version. Here in RAW version, the maker manages the kukri’s edge and panel in such way that no machining is required at later stage.

# Black Version:

The Raw khukuri blade made by Kami is not even stone grinded or sanded (left as it is). The Raw part is then thoroughly coated by using primer and black chemical applied until necessary. Then the kukri is carefully heat treated (dried) in a special oven at 200-250* C for 2-3 hours and left to dry for 1-2 days. After that only a section or two (panel or/and edge) goes through machining (polished/semi-polished/unpolished) should that be the standard finishing (pre-set) of the khukuri knife. No heat is generated so temper issue is completely eliminated. The original temper totally retains in this version. Here in Black version, the maker manages the kukri’s edge and panel in such way that no machining is required at later stage.

# Mix Version:

It is the combination of two or three types of finishing versions as mentioned above within the same blade or knife. The finishing is manipulated by combining various versions to get better result and look. The versions/types of blade finishing used in the same blade are mentioned in the knife’s product description.

  • # Fuller / Groove:

    Curvature/s or hump/s that run along the surface/panel of the blade that is especially made for two specific objectives; to reduce the unnecessary weight of the blade and to withstand the direct impact generated from a strike against the edge of the blade. The curvature will evenly distribute the shock/force in a wavy motion towards the spine lessening the stress faced by the edge. The mass of the blade is evenly grinded off in a concave format to make the fuller/s. Fuller version is recommended for heavy stressful work.

  • # Full Flat Tang (Panawal version):

    The tang of the blade is flat and goes all the way through the handle and is secured by rivets from both sides. The full flat tang is also visible on the sides of the handle. Two pieces of handle materials are fixed to the tang to complete the fixture. Bolster, butt cap, keeper, rivets, epoxy are used to strongly secure all the fittings. Full flat tang is easily identified by the rivets/dots seen in the handle. Highly recommended for heavy duty work.

  • # Rat Tail Tang or Stick Tang (Normal version):

    Most common type of tang where it is made flat and triangular shaped, having wider area close to the blade and narrower as it finishes towards the butt. The tang goes all the way through the handle and is secured tightly from the back by butt cap and keeper. Only the end or tail of the tang is visible from outside. A see thru hole is drilled in the handle to insert the tang all the way. Laha (traditional glue from bark of tree) or sometimes epoxy is used to jam the tang. Since the tang has an overall look of a rat’s tail it is called so. Recommended for regular and normal use.

  • # L-Key Handle System:

    A complete new type of handle fixture initiated by KHHI. Same as the above mentioned “Full Flat Tang (Panawal version)” but instead of regular rivets/pins L-Key knot bolt is used. The fixture will last a life time. Recommended for heavy duty work.

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